Market Conditions
Update

Spring to Early Summer · Miso-Yaki · Nigiri

Tokishirazu season has begun. This rare chum salmon is caught in spring and early summer, months before the usual spawning season. “Tokishirazu” means “the salmon that has forgotten the season,” as these fish arrive long before they are supposed to. Because they arrive so early, their bodies remain rich with fat not yet metabolized for spawning. Their biological clocks are still reading the right time, but the season is wrong. These salmon are a delicacy of late spring and early summer. As of late, we have been serving them as miso-yaki (marinated in white miso and grilled) or nigiri.

Mako · Hoshi · Nigiri · Nitsuke

Various karei are in season, including mako karei, hoshi karei, matsukawa karei, and ishi karei. Hoshi karei in particular is often considered one of the kings of shiromi, and these fish are among the pinnacle white fish of the season. In Japan, they are typically reserved for only the best sushi counters due to their extremely high price. We are seeing net-caught matsukawa karei from Erimo, Hokkaido; ikejime mako karei from Ibaraki, Kanagawa, and Chiba; and ikejime hoshi karei from Aichi. In the kitchen, these fish lend themselves naturally to nigiri and restrained preparations like nitsuke (simmered in broth).

Single Line · Ikejime Onboard · Massaman

Ji-kinmedai is in the kitchen weekly. All single-line caught and ikejime-processed onboard, these are true specimens of small, fatty shiromi. Using this fish to create a seafood version of our popular Massaman curry may have eclipsed the wagyu brisket version. The tender, fatty flesh of the fish, poached in curry and served over clay-pot cooked Tsuyahime rice, is a treasure to behold.

Horse Mackerel · Peak Fat · Nigiri or Sashimi

The Aji, or horse mackerel, season is still going strong. Yamaguchi Setsuki aji in particular have been showing exceptionally well this season. Unlike other migrating aji, Setsuki aji settle around natural reefs and grow with abundant resources, making them extra fatty, refined, and delicious. They have a much cleaner taste than the aji you might typically be used to. These reef-dwelling fish are peaking in fattiness right now and are especially compelling raw.

Koshiba · Nagai · Grilled or Fried

The Tachiuo, or belt fish, season is peaking now. We are seeing excellent net-caught specimens coming into the ports of Koshiba and Nagai off Kanagawa, though the best Tachiuo is caught closer to shore, inside the bay. A fish remarkable when enjoyed grilled or fried.

Tempura · Light Grill · Torched Skin

In terms of smaller fish, Kohada is in a transitional moment as the calendar moves toward shinko season, while sayori’s spring window is fading. The good news is that it is peak season for Kisu, and Ebodai is starting to show beautifully as well. Kisu is perhaps one of the most legendary fish for tempura. Ebodai is a small, fatty fish renowned for its incredible flavor when lightly grilled, or served raw with the skin torched. Both are excellent markers of the beginning of summer.

Egg Roll · Poached · Grilled · Curry

Tai shirako quality is improving, and larger sizes are coming in more consistently. Shirako egg roll! Poached shirako! Grilled shirako! Curry shirako! Shirako is a spectrum—worth exploring in its many preparations.

Ikejime · Nama-Panko · Sichuan Peppercorn

Ikejime Aori Ika, or bigfin reef squid, is still in season. This incredible specimen of squid is so much cleaner than what we are used to getting here locally in the states. We have been serving a lot of fried calamari with thick-cut Aori Ika, nama-panko-crusted and dusted in Sichuan peppercorn. A true delicacy that has to be tasted to be appreciated.

Heirloom Chicken · Rendang Pasta · Oxtail Birria

Land-dwelling protein of note lately includes beautiful heirloom chickens from Pitman Family Farms, showing rich yellow fat beneath the skin. Beef rendang pasta and oxtail birria have also been touching the chefs’ tasting spoons. A wagyu crunchwrap supreme with an uni cheese sauce has been gracing some plates in the dining room as well. Also of note: a "Hawiian Pizza Bagel" made with Spanish tomate, roasted & glazed pineapple, Iberican pork, and caviar.

Strawberries · Melons · Stone Fruit

Strawberry season is officially here, which is always a time to rejoice. Melons have also arrived, and California’s selection of melons is often underestimated and underappreciated, with so many niche varieties appearing week after week. Keep an eye out for Sugar Cube and Brilliant melons. Peach and nectarine season is starting to heat up, but we’re still not at the peak yet. Plums, however, are coming in strong.